Adjustable Door Rack on Wheels
- 2 – 4″ wheels
- 3 – 18″ X 1 1/2″ Pipe
- 2 – 50″ X 1 1/2″ Pipe
- 2 – 36″” X 1 1/2″ Pipe
- 2 – 30″ X 1″ Square Tubing
- 4 – 1 1/2″ Square Tubing
- 2 – 8″ X 4″ X 1/4″ Flat
- 2 – 24″ X 1 1/2″ Angle
- 1 – 24″ X 2 1/2″ X 1″ C Channel
- 4 – 1/” X 1″ Bolts and Nuts
- 2 – 1/2″ X 2″ Bolts 10 1/2″ Flat Washers 4 1/2″ Nuts
I used a tubing notcher to cut the pipe that welded 90 degrees to another pipe. If you do not have a notcher use a vice to squeeze the end flat where a weld is needed. The 2 36″ pieces are the base of the stand. Weld 2 of the 18″ pieces between the 36″ pieces 12″ from each end. Weld the 50″ pieces of pipe upright from the center of each 36″ base. Weld in a 4″ X 1/4″ angle gusset on each upright for strength. Make a 2″ X 2″ X 1/4″ tab and weld on one end of each 36″ base, drill a 1/2″ hole and mount the wheel so that is is about 1/2″ lower than the base.
Weld the 8″ X 1/4″ Flat to the center of the 30″ 1″ square tubing support rail. Weld the support rail to the outside of the upright 24″ up from the base. Tack weld and use clamps to make sure the support rails are plumb and straight and stay that way when you weld to the uprights.
Drill a 1/2″ hole in the center of one side of the 4″ X 1 1/2″ support slider. Weld a 1/2″ nut over the hole so that you can use the 1″ bolt as a lock on the support slider. Slide the Support slider over each of the support rails with the locking bolt to the outside. Tack the angle to each slider so that the angle is up to catch the door bottom. make sure the slider assemblies slide on the support rails. Weld the C channel top support to the top of the uprights.
I used 2 30″ pieces of 1/2″ Electrical conduit as handle to move the rack. They slide into the support rails on the opposite end from the wheels and allow you to move the rack like a wheel barrow. I picked up some 1″ foam pipe insulators and cut them to fit on the uprights between the support rails and the top support. This will act as a cushion when the doors are on the rack. I used bungee cords to anchor the doors to the top support. The rack is stable and allows you to work on the doors with either the inside or outside facing out. A Gen 4 El Camino door is so long and so heavy that it makes the movement of the rack a little difficult, but is is doable. I made this rack at a good height to work on the doors while sitting down.
Steel Tubing Straightener
- 1 – 12″ X 14″ 16 gauge plate
- 1 – 1 1/2″ X 3/16 angle
- 1 – Long 1/2″ nut
- 1 – 6″ X 1/2″ threaded rod
- 7 – 2″ grooved pulleys
- 7 – 5/16″ X 1 1/2″ bolts nuts and flat washers
- 1 – Handle for the adjuster bolt.
Cut the 16 gauge plate to fit the shape shown in the drawing. Drill the holes as shown. I drilled holes at each end of the slots and cut between the holes to make the slots. The slots need to be wide enough that the 5/6″ flat washer will fit into the hole on the flat. I used a sheet metal brake to bend the top of the plate and the double bend on the bottom of the plate. The top of the plate is were the adjuster bolt will mount. The bottom double bend is where you can clamp the straightener into a vice. If you do not have access to a brake you can weld or bolt an angle ti the top and a piece of square tubing to the bottom.
I ordered the grooved pulleys from Amazon – 2″ grooved pulley link Drill 3 holes into the angle to match the 3 grooves in the plate. Use the flat washers and bolt the 3 grooved pulleys through the plate to the angle. Put a flat washer on the bolt, slide on the pulley, slide on a fender washer and flat washers to space the thickness of the plate. Put the assembly trough the slot add another fender washer, add the angle and put a lock nut on the bolt. Do the same with the other 2 pulleys. The fender washers sandwich the plate with flat washers in the slots so when tightened up the three top pulleys will slide up and down as a 3 pulley unit and the pulleys will spin freely.
Bolt the 4 bottom pulleys into the bottom 4 holes. Use the flat washers to shim out the pulleys to match the adjustable top pulleys. Weld the long 1/2″ nut to the top angle of the plate so that the adjuster threaded rod will thread down to make contact with the angle on the 3 pulley assembly. Weld the adjustment handle to the top of the threaded rod and thread the rod into the nut. Insert the steel tubing into the straightener from one side so the tubing is in the groove of all 7 pulleys. Adjust the top pulley assembly down by turning the adjuster bolt pushing the pulleys down. Move the tubing back and forth trough the straightener. The tubing will come out straight and true.